Slide

Education Resources

History of Hermès
Important Dates
Bag Styles
Leathers

Hardware
Colors & Codes
Stamp Guide
Authentication

Spotting Fakes
Care & Storage
Investment Guide

History

History of Hermès

Deemed one of the world’s most valuable luxury brands, Hermès transcends the luxury industry, setting new trends and immortalizing its iconic products. The brand continues to emphasize the value of hand craftsmanship while honoring its rich history. Beyond design, innovation, and creative minds, Hermès has withstood modern market challenges, industry demands, and tightening competition due to its unparalleled legacy in the luxury market.

Origins and Early History

The Hermès Fashion House was established in Paris as a harness-making shop in 1837 by Thierry Hermès (1801-1878). Serving European noblemen, the shop created wrought bridles and harnesses for carriages, attracting stylish Parisian elite and European royalty, including Napoléon III and Empress Eugénie. In late 1879, Thierry’s son Charles-Emile expanded the line to include saddles and opened a new location near the Palais de l’Elysee.

Expanding the Brand

Important Dates

1837 - Thierry Hermès establishes a harness workshop in Paris, specializing in high-quality bridles and harnesses for European noblemen.
1880 - Charles-Émile Hermès, Thierry’s son, relocates the business to 24 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, where Hermès’ flagship store remains today.
1900 - Hermès introduces the Haut à Courroies (HAC) bag, designed to carry saddles and equestrian equipment.
1914 - Émile-Maurice Hermès secures exclusive French rights to the zipper, becoming the first to incorporate it into leather goods and clothing.
1918 - Hermès creates the first leather golf jacket with a zipper, designed for Edward, Prince of Wales.
1922 - The brand introduces its first handbag after Émile-Maurice Hermès’ wife expresses difficulty finding one she likes. He designs a smaller version of the HAC bag himself.
1929 - Hermès debuts its first women’s couture apparel collection in Paris.
1935 - The Sac à Dépêches is introduced, a structured leather bag designed for carrying documents. It would later become known as the Kelly bag.
1937 - Hermès launches its signature silk carré scarves, which become instant fashion icons.

1949 - The house introduces its first fragrance, Eau d’Hermès.
1951 - Robert Dumas-Hermès, son-in-law of Émile-Maurice, becomes chairman, leading the brand through an era of modernization.
1956 - Grace Kelly, Princess of Monaco, is photographed using the Sac à Dépêches to shield her pregnancy from paparazzi. The bag is later renamed the Kelly in her honor.
1978 - Jean-Louis Dumas, a member of the fifth generation of the Hermès family, becomes chairman and initiates a period of significant growth and diversification.
1981 - British actress Jane Birkin, seated next to Jean-Louis Dumas on a flight from Paris to London, discusses her need for a practical yet stylish handbag. This conversation inspires the creation of the Birkin bag.
1984 - The first Birkin bag is introduced, featuring a spacious design with a distinctive flap and double handles, catering to the needs of modern women.
1996 - Hermès introduces the Birkin 30, a smaller version of the original Birkin, measuring 30 centimeters, in response to client requests for a more compact size.
2000 - The Kelly bag is updated with added strap rings, leading to the release of the Kelly II, enhancing its functionality with a detachable shoulder strap.

2000 - Hermès introduces the H stop zipper on its bags, featuring a distinctive ‘H’ shape at the zipper stop. The original zipper design continues until 2007, with all bags adopting the H stop zipper by 2008.
2003 - Jean-Paul Gaultier is appointed as Creative Director of Hermès, bringing a fresh and avant-garde perspective to the brand’s classic designs.
2004 - Gaultier reimagines the traditional Kelly bag, introducing the Kelly Flat. This version features a relaxed structure with pliable leather and a strap that allows the bag to be folded and secured, enhancing its versatility and modern appeal.
2004 - Hermès debuts the Birkin 25, the smallest version of the iconic Birkin bag, measuring 25 centimeters, catering to clients desiring a more petite handbag.
2004 - The Swift leather is introduced, known for its soft, fine-grain texture and ability to absorb vibrant colors, becoming a popular choice for various Hermès bags.
2004 - Introduction of the Kelly Flat, a reinterpretation of the classic Kelly bag with a relaxed structure, allowing it to be folded and secured with a strap.
2005 - Gaultier introduces the Shoulder Birkin, a contemporary twist on the classic Birkin bag. This design features a longer, more rectangular shape with elongated handles, allowing for comfortable shoulder carry and a modern silhouette.

2005 - Inspired by Hermès’ vibrant Paris flagship displays, the Metallic Birkin Collection features limited-edition bags with unique metallic finishes, achieved through a specialized pigmentation process.
2006 - Hermès introduces the Horseshoe Stamp (HSS) to signify custom, special-order pieces. Initially optional, it becomes standard for all custom orders by 2008, denoting exclusivity and personalization.
2006 - The interior lining of Birkin and Kelly pockets transitions from suede to chèvre (goat leather), enhancing durability and luxury. Some 2006 bags still feature suede interiors, while certain crocodile and matte alligator bags are lined with silk, toile, or fabric.
2007 - Under Gaultier’s direction, Hermès releases the Kelly Pochette, a clutch-sized version of the iconic Kelly bag. This elegant piece maintains the signature Kelly flap and top handle, offering a compact option for evening wear.
2008 - Gaultier designs the Jypsière bag, a unisex, crossbody bag that merges Hermès’ equestrian heritage with contemporary style. It features a relaxed silhouette with the signature Kelly closure, providing a casual yet sophisticated accessory.
2010 - Launch of the So Black Collection, presenting iconic bags like the Birkin and Kelly in an all-black motif, including black PVD hardware, exuding a sleek and modern aesthetic.
2011 - Introduction of the Kelly Picnic, a playful rendition of the classic Kelly bag, crafted with woven wicker and Barenia leather, reminiscent of a traditional picnic basket.
2012 - Release of the Club Birkin, showcasing a sporty design with contrasting vertical stripes and often incorporating exotic materials, adding a dynamic twist to the classic silhouette.
2016 - Introduction of the Birkin Sellier, featuring sharper edges and visible stitching, offering a more structured and formal version of the traditional Birkin bag.

2017 - Launch of the Touch Birkin, combining classic Togo leather with exotic skins like lizard or crocodile on the flap and handles, providing a subtle yet luxurious contrast.
2018 - Release of the Tressage Collection, characterized by panels of multicolored woven leather, showcasing intricate craftsmanship and adding a vibrant touch to classic designs.
2019 - Debut of the Faubourg Birkin, inspired by the façade of Hermès’ flagship store at 24 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré in Paris, featuring details reminiscent of the store’s architecture, including orange awnings and a clochette designed to resemble the iconic shopping bag.
2020 - Introduction of the Cargo Birkin, crafted from lightweight canvas and featuring multiple exterior pockets, including a dedicated cup holder, emphasizing functionality and offering a casual twist on the classic Birkin silhouette.
2020 - Launch of the Sunrise and Sunset Rainbow Birkins, limited-edition bags featuring Sellier stitching and vibrant color palettes. The Sunrise version showcases hues like Lime, Rose Confetti, Terre Battue, and Sesame, while the Sunset version includes Abricot, Bleu Agate, Magnolia, and Rouge Casaque.
2021 - Release of the Birkin 3-in-1, a versatile design allowing the bag to be worn in three different ways: as a classic Birkin, a detachable clutch, or an open-top tote, catering to various styling needs.
2022 - Introduction of the Colormatic Collection, featuring bags with bold, contrasting color blocks and modern design elements, appealing to contemporary aesthetics.
2023 - Debut of the Birkin en Désordre and Kelly en Désordre, avant-garde interpretations of the classic designs with asymmetrical flaps and playful twists, challenging traditional aesthetics.
2023 - Launch of the Côte à Côte Collection, featuring bags with side-by-side color combinations and materials, creating a harmonious yet contrasting visual effect.

Bag Styles

Other popular Hermès bags include the Bolide, introduced in 1923 with the first use of a zipper in a handbag; the Evelyne, featuring the iconic perforated H; the Garden Party, a classic tote with expandable snap sides; the Constance, an elegant shoulder bag with a signature “H” clasp; the Picotin, a bucket-style bag with a roomy interior; the Jypsiere, a messenger style designed by Jean-Paul Gaultier; the Lindy, with two separate sides and zipper pulls; and man more.

The Birkin Bag

The Birkin bag, introduced in 1984, stands as the most sought-after, collectible bag ever made. Created by Hermès CEO Jean-Louis Dumas and actress Jane Birkin, the bag is handmade by expert artisans in France using the company's signature saddle stitching. Prices range from $10,500 to $150,000, varying based on leather and hardware, with limited distribution creating exclusivity. Birkins come in sizes from 25cm to 45cm, with distinct features such as rolled leather handles, a flap closure, and a padlock. A similar bag, and the original version of the Birkin, the Haut au Courries (HAC), is slightly taller with shorter straps.

Birkin bags are currently available in sizes: 20, 25, 30, 35, 40 and its larger counterpart, HAC comes in multiple sizes as well.

Source: Hermès USA

Hermès Birkin 25 Prices

Hermès Birkin 30 Prices

The Kelly Bag

The Kelly bag dates back to 1892. Originally called the Sac à Dépêches, renamed as the Kelly in 1977, when Grace Kelly famously covered her baby bump with one of these iconic bags. Each Kelly bag, handcrafted over 18 hours, features a draw-strap and lock mechanism similar to the Birkin, with a single top handle and optional shoulder strap. Kelly bags come in sizes from 20cm to 35cm and are available in two styles: Sellier, with a structured shape and exterior stitching, and Retourne, with a softer shape and interior stitching.

Kelly bags are currently available in sizes: 20, 25, 28, 32, 35, 40. There are some larger variations such as Kelly Voyage and Kelly Maxi 42.

Source: Academy by Fashionpile

The Constance Bag

The Constance bag was introduced in 1959 and named after the designer’s daughter, born on the same day the first bag was completed. Known for its sleek, structured silhouette, the Constance features an iconic "H" clasp and an adjustable leather strap, allowing it to be worn on the shoulder or crossbody. Each bag is meticulously handcrafted, taking up to 14 hours to complete.

The Constance comes in sizes 18cm, 24cm, and the more recent 25cm and Elan versions. Coveted for its elegance and versatility, the Constance remains one of Hermès' most sought-after designs.

Source: Hermès USA

Other Hermes Classic Bags

Besides the Birkin, Kelly, and Constance, Hermès has several other classic bags that are highly coveted for their craftsmanship, history, and timeless design. Some of the most iconic ones include:

The Evelyne Bag

Introduced in 1978, the Evelyne bag was originally designed as an equestrian utility bag for horse groomers, featuring a perforated "H" logo to allow ventilation for grooming tools. Crafted in soft leather with a relaxed, unstructured silhouette, the Evelyne is known for its effortless, casual elegance. It has a simple snap-button closure and an adjustable canvas strap, making it ideal for crossbody wear.

The bag comes in four sizes: TPM (16cm), PM (29cm), GM (33cm), and TGM (40cm). Highly functional yet stylish, the Evelyne has evolved from a practical stable bag to a modern must-have, beloved for its versatility and understated luxury.

The Bolide Bag

Created in 1923, the Bolide was the first handbag to feature a zipper, making it a groundbreaking innovation in luxury travel accessories. Designed by Émile-Maurice Hermès for his wife’s travels, the Bolide has a structured, domed silhouette with curved top handles and an optional shoulder strap. It comes in two styles: the classic Bolide, which maintains its structured form, and the Bolide Mou, a softer, more relaxed version.

Available in sizes 27cm, 31cm, 35cm, and 45cm, the Bolide remains a timeless and practical choice for both travel and everyday sophistication.

Source: Hermès USA

The Lindy Bag

Introduced in 2007, the Lindy reimagines classic handbag design with its unique side-handled construction, allowing it to slouch naturally when carried. The bag features a double-handle design for hand carry and an integrated shoulder strap for versatility. Secured by a turn-lock closure and two side zippers, the Lindy is both stylish and functional.

It comes in five sizes: 20cm, 26cm, 30cm, 34cm, and 45cm. With its relaxed yet refined aesthetic, the Lindy is perfect for those who appreciate casual elegance with a modern twist.

The Picotin Bag

Inspired by traditional horse feed bags, the Picotin Lock is a minimalist bucket bag that embodies Hermès’ equestrian heritage. Its unstructured leather body, paired with a simple leather strap closure secured by a signature Hermès padlock, creates a perfect balance between casual and luxurious.

The Picotin is available in sizes 14cm, 18cm, 22cm, and 26cm, making it a versatile option for various needs. Known for its supple leather and effortless charm, the Picotin Lock has become a beloved everyday bag for those who favor understated elegance.

The Herbag Bag

Often called the "Kelly’s little sister," the Herbag features a similar trapezoidal shape to the iconic Kelly but with a more casual and versatile design. Made from durable canvas with a leather flap and top handle, the Herbag stands out for its interchangeable body, allowing owners to switch colors and sizes. It features a simple strap closure with a padlock for security.

Available in sizes 31cm, 39cm, and 52cm (Cabine version), the Herbag is a perfect blend of sophistication and practicality, making it a go-to travel companion or an elegant everyday bag.

Source: Hermès UAE

The Garden Party

A refined yet practical tote, the Garden Party is known for its simple, structured silhouette and roomy interior. Made with either an all-leather or canvas body with leather trim, it features snap-button closures for expandability and a discreet, timeless design.

The Garden Party is available in three sizes: 30cm, 36cm, and 49cm (Voyage version), making it suitable for everyday use, work, or travel. With its balance of functionality and elegance, the Garden Party is a staple for those who appreciate effortless style.

Source: Hermès UK

The Verrou Bag

First designed in 1938, the Verrou bag is a rare and sophisticated Hermès creation, inspired by the lock mechanism found on horse stable doors. With its clean lines, structured silhouette, and distinctive sliding bolt clasp, the Verrou is a statement piece for collectors and fashion connoisseurs.

Available in clutch and shoulder bag styles, the Verrou is crafted in exquisite leathers and limited-edition variations, making it one of Hermès’ most exclusive designs. Its architectural beauty and functional elegance ensure it remains a sought-after piece in the world of luxury handbags.

Source: Hermès Singapore

Limited & Special Edition

Authentic Hermès bags are made from the highest quality leathers and skins, each displaying unique natural variations. For instance, Togo leather may have many veins, while another Togo bag might have none. Minor imperfections are common and indicate the authenticity of the leather. Authentic Hermes leather would never have a chemical/plastic feel or smell. Instead, it would feel very luxurious and supple, and have a very natural and rich leather scent.

So Black Series

With its sleek, all-black aesthetic, the So Black series is ideal for those who prefer a modern, edgy style. It transitions seamlessly from evening events to chic urban settings, appealing to fashion-forward individuals.

Shadow Birkin

Cargo Birkin

Designed for the modern traveler or the individual who values functionality, the Cargo Birkin offers ample storage and a contemporary look. Its practicality makes it suitable for everyday use, work, or travel, appealing to those who seek both style and convenience.

Picnic Kelly

The Picnic Kelly's charming design makes it ideal for summer outings, garden parties, or leisurely strolls. Its unique blend of materials evokes a sense of relaxed sophistication, appealing to those who embrace a whimsical, yet elegant style.

Faubourg Birkin

A miniature work of art, the Faubourg Birkin is a collector's item that can be used for special events, or displayed. Its detailed design is for those who love intricate details, and the history of Hermes. It is for those who appreciate the ultimate level of craftsmanship.

Exotics & Rare Releases

Hermès' history with leather dates back to 1837, when Thierry Hermès founded the brand as a harness and saddle workshop in Paris. Known for its exceptional craftsmanship, Hermès expanded into luxury leather goods in the 1920s, introducing handbags like the Bolide (1923) and Kelly (1930s).

The brand continuously innovated, introducing leathers like Box Calf (1920s), one of its oldest and most traditional materials. In the 1980s and 1990s, new leathers such as Clemence (1980s) and Togo (1997) were introduced, offering softer, more durable options. Hermès also became known for its exotic skins, using crocodile, alligator, ostrich, and lizard for its most exclusive pieces. Today, Hermès offers a vast selection of leathers, each meticulously sourced and tanned to maintain the highest quality, continuing its legacy of excellence in leather craftsmanship.

Leathers

Barenia Calfskin

Characteristics - Smooth, matte finish, slightly oily texture.

History - Barenia calfskin is a traditional saddle leather with a long history at Hermès, prized for its natural beauty and durability.

Pros - It develops a rich patina over time, becoming more beautiful with age. It is known for its durability and resistance to wear.

Cons - It is prone to oil marks and scratches, requiring careful maintenance to preserve its appearance.

Current Use - Limited Use. Found in various Hermes bags and small leather goods.

Barenia Faubourg

Characteristics - Similar to Barenia but with a more pronounced grain.

History - Barenia Faubourg is a modern variation of classic Barenia leather, offering a refined texture with enhanced grain definition.

Pros - It shares the durability and aging characteristics of Barenia while presenting a more textured appearance that patinas beautifully over time.

Cons - Prone to scratches and watermarks due to its smooth surface, necessitating careful handling and maintenance.

Current Use - Limited Use. Found in various Hermes bags and small leather goods.

Box Calf

Characteristics - Smooth, shiny finish, rigid structure.

History - Box Calf leather has been a staple at Hermès since the late 19th century, celebrated for its elegant sheen and structured form.

Pros - It develops a lustrous patina that deepens with time, offering a timeless appeal that complements formal and casual settings alike.

Cons - Prone to scratches and watermarks due to its smooth surface, necessitating careful handling and maintenance.

Current Use - Limited Use. Found in various Hermes bags and small leather goods.

Butler

Characteristics - Smooth, vintage appearance.

History - Butler leather is a rare find at Hermès, reserved for special editions or limited-production runs, known for its distinctive vintage look.

Pros - It stands out with its unique, aged appearance, appealing to collectors and enthusiasts of rare Hermès items.

Cons - Requires specialized care to maintain its vintage charm, as it can be more susceptible to marks and stains.

Current Use - Limited Use. Found in various Hermes bags and small leather goods.

Chevre

Characteristics - Various types with fine grain and slight sheen.

History - Chevre leather has a longstanding history at Hermès, prized for its smooth texture and resilience.

Pros -It is highly scratch-resistant and maintains its shape well, making it ideal for structured bags and accessories.

Cons - Limited color range compared to other leathers, which may restrict design options.

Current Use - Serves as the interior lining for most Hermes bags. Limited use but can be found in smaller bags and leather goods.

Clemence

Characteristics - Soft, matte finish, slightly larger grain than Togo.

History - Introduced in the 1990s, Clemence leather is appreciated for its luxurious feel and casual elegance.

Pros - It offers a soft and supple texture that ages beautifully, developing a distinctive patina over time.

Cons - It can be heavier compared to other leathers, and its softness may lead to slight slouching in larger items.

Current Use - Found in various Hermes bags and small leather goods.

Doblis

Characteristics - Various types with fine grain and slight sheen.

History - Chevre leather has a longstanding history at Hermès, prized for its smooth texture and resilience.

Pros - It maintains its shape well and is highly resistant to scratches, offering a sleek and modern look.

Cons - Less supple compared to other Hermès leathers. Can get permanent folds or press marks.

Current Use - Limited use. Rare. Found in smaller bags and leather goods.

Epsom

Characteristics - Embossed, fine grain, structured.

History - Introduced in 2003, Epsom leather is recognized for its polished appearance and structured form.

Pros - It maintains its shape well and is highly resistant to scratches, offering a sleek and modern look.

Cons - Less supple compared to other Hermès leathers. Can get permanent folds or press marks.

Current Use - Found in various Hermes bags and small leather goods.

Evercolor

Characteristics - Smooth, fine grain, semi-matte.

History - Evercolor leather represents a modern addition to the Hermès lineup, known for its smooth texture and versatile appeal.

Pros - It is scratch-resistant and retains its shape well, making it ideal for structured designs.

Cons - Color options may be more limited compared to other Hermès leathers.

Current Use - Found in various Hermes bags and small leather goods.

Evergrain

Characteristics - Smooth, fine grain with a subtle sheen.

History - Evergrain leather is a recent addition to Hermès offerings, prized for its soft texture and refined appearance.

Pros - It offers an elegant touch with its fine grain and subtle sheen, enhancing the sophistication of Hermès creations.

Cons - Like other smooth leathers, Evergrain may be susceptible to scratches.

Current Use - Found in various Hermes bags and small leather goods.

Grizzly

Characteristics - Soft, textured leather with a pronounced grain. The HERMÈS foil stamp is usually found inside the bag instead of its traditional position above the touret (turnlock).

History - Grizzly leather is prized for its tactile appeal and unique grain pattern, crafted to enhance the natural beauty of Hermès creations.

Pros - Renowned for its plush feel and distinctive texture, offering a luxurious touch that evolves beautifully with age.

Cons - Requires careful maintenance to preserve its appearance, as the textured surface can be more susceptible to dirt and wear.

Current Use - Limited and rare. Found in various Hermes bags and small leather goods, often paired with swift leather.

Jonathan

Characteristics - Smooth, semi-matte finish.

History - Jonathan leather is a modern addition to Hermès, known for its refined appearance and versatile qualities.

Pros - It combines a sleek finish with durability, suitable for both formal and casual settings.

Cons - Like other smooth leathers, Jonathan may show scratches over time.

Current Use - Limited and rare. Found in various Hermès bags and small leather goods.

Madame

Characteristics - Smooth, semi-matte finish.

History - Recently introduced, Madame leather embodies modern sophistication with its sleek appearance and refined texture.

Pros - It offers a polished look and durable performance, suitable for everyday use.

Cons - Limited availability, typically featured in select Hermès designs.

Current Use - Limited and rare. Found in various Hermès bags and small leather goods.

Maurice

Characteristics - Textured, semi-matte finish.

History - Maurice leather represents a contemporary addition to Hermès offerings, prized for its distinctive texture and durability.

Pros - It combines robustness with a unique tactile appeal, adding character to Hermès accessories.

Cons - Limited availability, often featured in exclusive or limited-edition releases.

Current Use - Limited and rare. Found in various Hermès bags and small leather goods.

Monsieur

Characteristics - Smooth (or grained) with a semi-matte finish.

History - Monsieur leather is rarely used by Hermès, noted for its refined appearance and luxurious feel.

Pros - Rare and exclusive. Luxurious feeling.

Cons - Can require careful handling to avoid scratches.

Current Use - Limited and rare. Found in various Hermès bags and small leather goods.

Negonda

Characteristics - Textured, semi-matte finish.

History - Negonda leather is a modern Hermès leather known for its textured appearance and durable performance. Mostly found in Garden Party bags.

Pros - It combines resilience with a unique grain pattern, adding character to Hermès designs.

Cons - Limited availability, typically featured in specific collections or designs.

Current Use - Mostly found in Garden Party bags.

Novillo

Characteristics - Smooth, semi-matte finish.

History - Novillo leather is a recent introduction at Hermès, prized for its refined texture and contemporary appeal.

Pros - It offers elegance with its smooth surface and semi-matte finish, suitable for various occasions.

Cons - Like other smooth leathers, Novillo may show signs of wear over time.

Current Use - Limited and rare. Found in various Hermès bags and small leather goods.

Swift

Characteristics - Soft, fine grain, semi-matte finish.

History - Introduced in 2006, Swift leather is renowned for its smooth texture and vibrant colors.

Pros - It offers a luxurious feel and is relatively scratch-resistant, maintaining its vibrant appearance over time.

Cons - Can show dents and scratches with use, and is less structured compared to some other Hermès leathers.

Current Use - Found in various Hermès bags and small leather goods.

Tadelakt

Characteristics - Smooth, glossy finish.

History - Introduced in the 2010s, Tadelakt leather exudes luxury with its polished appearance and rich texture.

Pros - It offers a sleek look and is highly durable, making it suitable for sophisticated Hermès designs.

Cons - Prone to scratches and requires careful maintenance to preserve its glossy finish.

Current Use - Found in various Hermès bags and small leather goods.

Togo

Characteristics - Textured, pebbled grain, scratch-resistant, easy to clean.

History - Introduced in the 1990s, Togo leather is celebrated for its resilience and natural grain pattern.

Pros - It maintains its shape well and is lightweight, offering practicality combined with a luxurious feel.

Cons - Can develop a slight slouch over time, particularly in larger items.

Current Use - One of Hermes most commonly used leathers. Found in various Hermès bags and small leather goods.

Vache Naturel

Characteristics - Natural, untreated leather.

History - Traditional Hermès leather, appreciated for its raw beauty and aging qualities.

Pros - It develops a rich patina over time, evolving with use to enhance its natural character.

Cons - Prone to scratches and stains, requiring careful upkeep to preserve its untreated appearance.

Current Use - Rarely used. Found in some limited edition or rare bags and small leather goods.

Exotic Leathers

Authentic Hermès exotic bags, like those made from crocodile or alligator, have unique scale patterns. No two bags are the same, and variations in scale size and pattern are expected. Minor creasing or lines through the scales are also common in genuine bags.

Niloticus Crocodile

Characteristics - Large, distinctive scales, often with a subtle gradient effect

History - Highly prized for its rarity and luxurious appearance, especially in the "Himalayan" coloring.

Pros - Symbolizes ultimate luxury, exceptional craftsmanship, and unique scale patterns.

Cons - Extremely rare and expensive, requires specialized care, sensitive to humidity and sunlight.

Current Use - High-value Birkin and Kelly bags, limited edition pieces, and special orders.

Porosus Crocodile

Characteristics - Small, symmetrical scales with tiny pores, known for its refined texture.

History - Considered one of the most precious crocodile leathers, favored for its elegance.

Pros - Highly luxurious, smooth texture, and consistent scale pattern.

Cons - Extremely rare and expensive, requires meticulous care, sensitive to environmental factors.

Current Use - High-end Birkin and Kelly bags, small leather goods, and exclusive accessories.

Niloticus Lizard

Characteristics - Characteristics: Small, intricate scales, often shiny. (-)

History - Lizard leather is used in smaller Hermès items, valued for its exotic texture and elegant appeal.

Pros - It offers a unique texture and is highly luxurious, adding a distinctive touch to Hermès accessories.

Cons - Delicate and requires careful handling to prevent drying and preserve its exotic appearance.

Current Use - Found in various Hermès leather goods.

Ostrich

Characteristics - Distinctive "pearly" texture from quill follicles, known for its supple feel.

History - Appreciated for its unique texture and durability.

Pros - Durable, supple, and develops a beautiful patina over time.

Cons - Requires careful cleaning and conditioning to maintain its unique texture.

Current Use - Birkin and Kelly bags, wallets, and a variety of leather goods.

Salvator Lizard

Characteristics - Fine, small scales, delicate and glossy appearance, often with a natural sheen.

History - Used for smaller, delicate items due to its thin and supple nature.

Pros - Unique texture, visually appealing, and adds a touch of exotic elegance.

Cons - Very delicate, prone to damage, requires careful handling and storage.

Current Use - Small leather goods, wallets, clutches, and occasionally smaller handbags.

Mississippiensis Alligator

Characteristics - Larger, square scales with a smooth, poreless surface.

History - Prized for its smooth texture and consistent quality.

Pros - Luxurious appearance, durable, and smooth to the touch.

Cons - Expensive, requires specialized care to maintain its pristine condition.

Current Use - Birkin and Kelly bags, wallets, and other luxury accessories.

Fake Leather : Counterfeit bags often use highly textured leathers with unnatural consistency throughout. Fake crocodile bags might be made from embossed leather rather than genuine skin, resulting in uniformly consistent scales, which is a clear sign of a counterfeit.

Hardware

Hermès hardware has evolved over time, reflecting the brand’s dedication to craftsmanship and exclusivity. Originally, the hardware was purely functional, designed to complement the brand’s equestrian roots. Over the years, it became a signature element, with high-quality materials like gold-plated brass, palladium, and even diamond-studded finishes. Each piece of hardware is meticulously crafted and engraved, often taking inspiration from the brand’s heritage—such as the Kelly lock, which was initially designed to secure saddle bags. Today, Hermès hardware is a crucial factor in a bag’s authenticity, desirability, and value, with rare variations like So Black and Guilloché becoming collector favorites.

Gold Hardware

Gold hardware is plated with a layer of 18k gold over a base metal, giving it a polished, reflective finish.

Source: Resellers Connector

Rose Gold Hardware

Rose gold hardware is 18k rose gold-plated, achieved by mixing gold with copper alloys to create a soft pink-toned finish.

Source: Resellers Connector

Palladium Hardware

Palladium hardware is plated with a layer of palladium, a naturally white precious metal from the platinum family, providing a high-shine, tarnish-resistant finish.

Source: Resellers Connector

Permabrass Hardware

Permabrass hardware is a gold-toned metal finish that is more muted than standard gold, offering a warm, champagne-like hue with improved resistance to tarnishing.

Source: Resellers Connector

Brushed Gold

Brushed gold hardware is 18k gold-plated but features a matte, textured surface achieved through a brushing technique that diffuses light.

Source: Resellers Connector

Brushed Palladium Hardware

Brushed palladium hardware is palladium-plated but has a matte, satin-like surface due to a brushing process that reduces reflectivity.

Source: Resellers Connector

Diamond Hardware

Diamond hardware consists of handset VVS diamonds set into 18k white gold, typically featured on limited edition and custom-order Hermès bags.

Source: Resellers Connector

PVD Hardware

PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition) hardware is a coating applied to stainless steel, primarily seen on the So Black collection, providing a deep black, scratch-resistant finish.

Source: Resellers Connector

Ruthenium Hardware

Ruthenium hardware is plated with ruthenium, a dark gray metal from the platinum family, providing an industrial, matte appearance with strong resistance to wear.

Source: Resellers Connector

Guilloché Hardware

Guilloché hardware is palladium or gold-plated with a mechanically engraved geometric pattern that creates a textured, light-reflecting surface.

Source: Resellers Connector

Electrum Hardware

Electrum hardware is a two-tone finish combining gold and palladium plating, creating a contrast between warm and cool tones, typically applied to hardware elements like buckles and clasps for a distinctive dual-metal look.

High Quality Genuine Metals: Authentic Hermès hardware is plated or finished in genuine precious metals, such as palladium or gold. More rarely, you might find brushed gold, rose gold, or ruthenium finishes. New bags have their hardware sealed in plastic for protection. The feet should have a small protective plastic film as well. Authentic Hermes bags do not come with protective rubber caps on the feet, however, you can find this on counterfeit bags. Although some people will also buy these caps aftermarket to protect their bag, a new bag would never come from the store with these rubber caps.

Engravings and Details: The plaques on the sangles of Birkin and Kelly bags are engraved with Hermès-PARIS. On gold-plated bags, there is a small box after PARIS with tiny writing inside that requires a loupe to read. This box is absent on palladium-plated bags, as it indicates the metal is gold. The font and spacing of these engravings may vary slightly, but counterfeit bags cannot replicate the precise lettering of authentic Hermès hardware. These engravings are laser etched and extremely crisp. They should have some depth and dimension to them, light should reflect when you look at a certain angle. Most counterfeit bags have printed or shallow engravings.

Other Hardware Elements: Authentic Birkin and Kelly bags have feet that are secure and cannot rotate or come off. The toggle and backplate should also be secure, and the toggle should turn smoothly. The rivets holding the hardware in place are squared at the top, a detail almost impossible to replicate on fake Hermès bags.

Fake Hardware: Counterfeit hardware often lacks the quality finish and precise engravings of genuine Hermès hardware. The feet, toggle, and rivets on fakes may be less secure or incorrectly shaped.

Tarnishing, Maintenance, and Care of Hermès Hardware

Hermès hardware is more than just a functional detail—it’s a defining feature of the brand’s craftsmanship and luxury. From classic gold and palladium to rare finishes like So Black and Guilloché, each hardware type adds to the bag’s elegance and value. However, proper care is essential to maintain its beauty over time. Understanding how to prevent tarnishing, minimize scratches, and store your bag correctly will help preserve its iconic shine for years to come.

Maintenance & Care

Avoid Moisture & Chemicals - Keep the hardware dry and away from perfumes, lotions, and hand sanitizers to prevent oxidation and plating wear.
Use a Soft Cloth - A microfiber cloth or jewelry polishing cloth can gently remove fingerprints and minor surface marks.
Store Properly - Keep the bag in its dust bag with protective felt pieces over the hardware to prevent scratches.
Protective Stickers New Hermès bags come with protective stickers on the hardware—removing them is a personal choice, but leaving them on may cause residue buildup over time.
Professional Polishing: Hermès boutiques offer hardware polishing services, but excessive polishing can wear down the plating.

Tarnishing & Wear

Gold-Plated & Permabrass - Larger, square scales with a smooth, poreless surface.
Palladium - More resistant to tarnishing but can show fine scratches, especially on high-touch areas like the lock and clasp.
Ruthenium & So Black - Can develop chipping or wear, especially on edges.
Diamond & Guilloché Hardware - Requires delicate handling to prevent scratches or damage to intricate engravings.

Colors & Codes

Hermès is renowned for its vast and meticulously curated color palette, with shades evolving over time. Each color has a specific code used for internal reference, making it easier to identify and authenticate.

Understanding Hermès Color Codes

Hermès assigns specific color codes to each shade to standardize and categorize its vast color library. These codes help distinguish similar hues, track seasonal releases, and authenticate products.

1. Structure of Hermès Color Codes

Typically 1–3 characters (letters, numbers, or both).
Used internally by Hermès to differentiate shades.
Not always visible to customers but often referenced in authentication and inventory systems.

2. Common Color Code Patterns

Classic Colors:

Noir (89) → Classic Black
Gold (37) → Rich Caramel Brown
Rouge H (H3) → Deep Burgundy Red
Etoupe (18) → Taupe-Grey

3. Special Codes & Custom Colors:

HSS (Hors-Série Spécial) – Used for custom, special-order bags.
So Black – Special all-black edition with black hardware.
Bicolor & Tricolor Bags – May have multiple color codes for different parts.

Neutral & Grey Tones:

Etain (8L) → Deep Charcoal Grey
Gris Perle (7C) → Soft Pearl Grey
Gris Mouette (8Z) → Cool Dove Grey

Pastel & Bright Colors:

Rose Sakura (3Q) → Soft Baby Pink
Jaune Poussin (9D) → Light Pastel Yellow
Bleu Frida (7W) → Vibrant Electric Blue
Vert Criquet (1L) → Light Pastel Green

Hermès Seasonal vs. Permanent Colors

Hermès offers an extensive range of colors, categorized into permanent (classic) colors and seasonal colors. Understanding the difference helps collectors and buyers make informed choices, especially when looking for rare or discontinued shades.

1. Permanent (Classic) Colors

These timeless colors are consistently available across various leather types and bag styles. They are versatile, highly sought-after, and often restocked.

Popular Permanent Colors:

Noir (89) – Classic black, always in demand.
Gold (37) – Warm caramel brown, an Hermès icon.
Etoupe (18) – Neutral taupe with grey undertones.
Etain (8L) – A deeper, smoky grey.
Rouge H (H3) – Deep wine red, timeless and elegant.
Blue Nuit (P9) – Dark navy with a nearly black appearance.

2. Seasonal Colors

Hermès introduces new colors each season, with some returning for a limited time while others are discontinued. These colors create excitement among collectors and can become highly valuable if rare.

Recent & Past Seasonal Colors:

Rose Sakura (3Q) – Soft baby pink.
Vert Criquet (1L) – Fresh pastel green.
Bleu Frida (7W) – Bright electric blue.
Jaune Poussin (9D) – Light pastel yellow.
Vert Fizz (C0) – A vibrant citrus green.

Why Seasonal Colors Are Special:

Often limited in availability and highly collectible.
Some shades never return, making them rare and desirable.
Creates exclusivity, increasing resale value for rare colors.

Comparing Similar Hermès Shades

Both Gold and Fauve are classic brown shades, but they differ in undertone and finish.

Key Difference: Gold is lighter and has a golden caramel tone, while Fauve is deeper and more reddish, especially in Barenia leather.

Etain vs. Gris T (Gris Tourterelle) (Cool Grey Tones)

Both are neutral greys, but Etain is darker and moodier, while Gris Tourterelle (Gris T) is lighter and softer.

Key Difference: Etain is a deeper, stormy grey, while Gris Tourterelle is a softer, dove-grey with slight warmth.

Stamp Guide

Hermès handbags feature a variety of stamps and markings that provide insight into their authenticity, origin, and unique characteristics. Understanding these stamps can help in identifying the history and exclusivity of a bag.

Foil Stamp

The foil stamp is typically located on the inner part of the bag, near the opening. It features the text "Hermès Paris Made in France" in either gold or silver foil. Some anomalies may occur in the stamping, such as variations in font thickness or slight misalignments, but these are rare. Additionally, certain bags may bear a store stamp, indicating they were made for a specific Hermès boutique or retailer.

Shooting Star Stamp

A shooting star symbol indicates that the bag was crafted by an Hermès artisan for their personal use. These bags are not meant for commercial sale but may occasionally appear on the resale market. The shooting star is a rare and special marking that adds to the desirability of a piece.

Blind Stamp

For specialty leathers such as Barenia, Swift, or Togo, Hermès uses an embossed blind stamp instead of a foil stamp. The text remains the same: "Hermès Paris Made in France", but it is heat-pressed into the leather rather than applied in foil. This method helps maintain the bag's elegant and understated appearance.

S for Sale Stamp

Bags marked with an S stamp were originally sold at a discounted price in an Hermès sale. This stamp is embossed into the leather, usually near the foil stamp. While these bags maintain the same high-quality craftsmanship, they are often excluded from Hermès' standard repair services.

Exotic Stamps

Hermès uses additional symbols to indicate exotic leathers:

Square (□): Crocodile Porosus
Double Dots (..): Crocodile Niloticus
Caret (^): Alligator Mississippiensis
No Symbol: Ostrich
Dash (-): Lizard
Blue Nuit (P9) – Dark navy with a nearly black appearance.

These stamps are discreetly embossed into the leather near the brand's signature stamp.

Understanding these stamps can enhance appreciation for the craftsmanship and exclusivity of Hermès bags. Whether purchasing or authenticating, recognizing these symbols is key to verifying the heritage of these timeless pieces.

Authentication

Hermès handbags are renowned for their exceptional craftsmanship and luxurious materials. However, their desirability has led to a rise in counterfeits. This guide will help you authenticate Hermès bags by understanding key details such as date codes, stitching, leather quality, hardware, and common counterfeit issues.

Date Codes & Blind Stamps

Each Hermès bag features a blind stamp that indicates the year of manufacture and the artisan who crafted it. The blind stamp is typically found inside the bag, embossed into the leather. The date code format has evolved over the years:

Noir (89) – Classic black, always in demand.
Gold (37) – Warm caramel brown, an Hermès icon.
Etoupe (18) – Neutral taupe with grey undertones.
Etain (8L) – A deeper, smoky grey.
Rouge H (H3) – Deep wine red, timeless and elegant.
Blue Nuit (P9) – Dark navy with a nearly black appearance.

Hermès Date Stamp Guide

Stitching & Craftsmanship

Hermès bags are hand-stitched using the saddle stitch technique, a meticulous process ensuring durability and a refined aesthetic. Key stitching characteristics include:

Slightly angled stitches instead of straight ones.
No visible loose threads or irregularities.
Consistency in spacing and depth.

Even on older Hermès bags, stitching should remain intact without fraying.

Leather Quality & Smell

Hermès uses only the highest-quality leather, each with distinct textures and finishes. Authentic Hermès leather characteristics include:

Togo & Clemence: Soft and slightly pebbled.
Epsom: Lightweight with a structured, embossed grain.
Box Calf: Smooth and glossy with a firm feel.
Exotic Leathers (Crocodile, Ostrich, Lizard): Unique scale patterns and a supple texture.

Genuine Hermès leather emits a natural, luxurious scent, free from chemical or plastic odors often found in counterfeits.

Hardware Details

Hermès hardware is crafted with precision and available in finishes like gold, palladium, rose gold, and brushed metals. Key authenticity markers include:

Weight: Genuine hardware feels solid and heavy.
Engraving: The "Hermès Paris" engraving is sharp and perfectly aligned.
Screws: Uses flat-head screws, not Philips-head or overly recessed screws.

Common Counterfeit Issues

Despite improving replica techniques, counterfeit Hermès bags often exhibit telltale signs, including:

Incorrect Blind Stamps: Wrong date codes or misaligned embossing.
Uneven Stitching: Sloppy, irregular stitches.
Plastic-like Smell: Poor-quality leather with an artificial scent.
Lightweight Hardware: Hollow, poorly engraved metal parts.
Mismatched Leather Texture: Fake bags often use incorrect or inconsistent leather types.

By carefully examining these details, you can confidently authenticate a Hermès bag. When in doubt, always consult a trusted authentication expert.

Spotting Fakes

How to Spot a Fake Hermès Bag

Luxury handbags, especially Hermès, are highly sought after, making them a target for counterfeiters. Authenticating a Hermès bag requires attention to fine details, from stitching to hardware. Here’s what to look for:

Source: Fashion For Lunch

Source: Fashion For Lunch

1. Stitching: Machine vs. Hand-Sewn Details

Hermès bags are meticulously crafted using the saddle-stitching technique, done by hand. This results in slightly slanted stitches that are consistent yet have a human touch. Counterfeit bags often feature machine stitching, which appears too uniform, too straight, or may have uneven spacing and loose threads.

2. Material Discrepancies: Leather & Metals

Hermès uses only the finest leathers, such as Togo, Epsom, and Clemence, which have a distinct texture and luxurious feel. Fake bags may have plasticky, overly stiff, or flimsy leather. Additionally, Hermès hardware is made of palladium, gold-plated metal, or even solid gold, while counterfeits often use lightweight, tarnishable metals.

3. Font & Stamp Inconsistencies

Every authentic Hermès bag features a heat-stamped logo that reads:
"Hermès Paris Made in France"
The font should be clean, precise, and deeply embossed into the leather. Many fakes have inconsistent spacing, shallow stamping, or incorrect font weight. Misaligned text is a major red flag.

4. Interior Lining & Pockets: Common Counterfeit Mistakes

Authentic Hermès bags have high-quality leather or goatskin linings, with careful stitching and perfectly proportioned pockets. Counterfeits often use synthetic linings or incorrectly sized compartments. If the lining feels rough, overly smooth, or glued, it’s likely a fake.

5. Hardware Weight & Engraving

Every authentic Hermès bag features a heat-stamped logo that reads:
"Hermès Paris Made in France"
Hermès hardware is solid, heavy, and precisely engraved. Counterfeit bags often have misaligned lettering, shallow engravings, or lightweight hardware that feels cheap. The iconic turn-lock closure, zippers, and clasps should feel sturdy and smooth, never flimsy or loose.

By focusing on these details, you can confidently differentiate a genuine Hermès bag from a counterfeit. If in doubt, always seek professional authentication.

Care & Storage

Bag Care & Storage

Hermès Luxury handbags are an investment, and proper care keeps them in pristine condition. Follow these essential tips:

Proper Storage

Stuffing: Use acid-free tissue or soft fabric to maintain shape.
Dust Bags: Store in a dust bag or breathable fabric.
Avoid Humidity: Keep in a cool, dry place with silica gel packets.
Positioning: Store upright, avoiding heavy stacking.

Leather Care & Maintenance

Apply a quality leather conditioner regularly.
Buff with a microfiber cloth to maintain luster.
Avoid extreme temperatures to prevent drying or stiffness.

Preventing Slouching & Creasing

Use bag shapers or soft stuffing.
Rotate bags to distribute wear.
Avoid hanging bags by straps.

Cleaning Dos & Don’ts

✅ Do:

Wipe with a dry or slightly damp microfiber cloth.
Use specialized cleaners for deeper cleaning.
Clean spills immediately.

❌ Don’t:

Use baby wipes, alcohol, or harsh chemicals.
Overload bags with heavy items.
Store in plastic or non-breathable materials.

Caring for Exotic Skins

Use conditioners made for exotic leathers.
Keep away from prolonged sunlight.
Wipe gently with a soft, damp cloth.
Store in a climate-controlled area.

Investment Guide

Hermès as an Investment

Luxury handbags have long been considered valuable assets, but few brands hold investment potential like Hermès. With limited production, meticulous craftsmanship, and timeless designs, Hermès bags consistently appreciate in value, making them a sought-after investment for collectors and fashion enthusiasts alike.

Top Investment Bags: Birkin vs. Kelly vs. Constance

Birkin

The most famous Hermès bag, known for its structured design and exclusivity. Its resale value remains high due to ongoing demand and limited availability.

Kelly

A more refined and elegant option, the Kelly bag is named after Grace Kelly. With its classic silhouette and growing popularity, it often matches or surpasses the Birkin in investment potential.

Constance

A smaller, more understated bag with a signature "H" clasp. While not as widely recognized as the Birkin or Kelly, rare Constance models have seen significant appreciation.

Best Leathers for Resale Value: Box vs. Togo vs. Epsom

The choice of leather plays a crucial role in the long-term value of an Hermès bag.

Box Leather

A smooth, structured leather with a glossy finish that develops a beautiful patina over time. Vintage Box leather bags are highly prized by collectors.

Togo Leather

A soft, durable, and slightly grained leather that maintains its shape well, making it one of the most popular and reliable choices for resale.

Epsom Leather

A lightweight, embossed leather that resists scratches and maintains its structure, making it a top choice for those looking for long-term value retention.

Colors That Appreciate in Value: Rare Neutrals & Limited Editions

Certain colors are more desirable in the resale market, often leading to higher appreciation.

Rare Neutrals

Shades like Etain, Gris Tourterelle, and Gold consistently perform well due to their timeless appeal and versatility.

Limited Editions

Seasonal or special-release colors, such as So Black, Himalaya, or custom orders, often fetch premium prices due to their rarity.

So Black

Himalaya

Gris Tourterelle

Etain

Gold

How to Track Pricing Trends – Auction Sales & Resale Demand

Hermès handbags are unlike any other luxury item—they are timeless, highly collectible, and often appreciate in value. To understand how prices shift in the secondary market, it’s important to track both auction sales and resale demand with a focus on Hermès-specific data.

Auction Sales

Top auction houses like Sotheby’s, Christie’s, and Phillips regularly feature rare Hermès pieces, including limited-edition Birkins, exotic Kellys, and vintage Constances. Final sale prices at these auctions serve as strong indicators of current market value—especially for rare or discontinued models.

Resale Platforms

Monitoring Hermès listings on platforms like Fashionphile, The RealReal, and Privé Porter can give real-time insight into buyer demand. Note which colors, sizes, and leathers sell quickly or command premiums—these trends can signal where the market is heading.

Shifts in Demand

Hermès releases are tightly controlled, and certain styles or combinations become instantly coveted. Keep an eye on influencer visibility, celebrity usage, and new seasonal drops, as these can cause spikes in resale value for specific bags.

Staying informed through these channels helps buyers and collectors make smarter decisions—whether you're adding to your personal collection or investing in a bag that holds or grows in value over time.

Long-Term vs. Short-Term Holding Strategy

When investing in Hermès handbags, understanding your holding strategy can impact both profitability and portfolio growth. Whether you're collecting for passion or profit, timing matters.

Short-Term Holding

Ideal for seasonal trends or limited releases, a short-term strategy focuses on flipping high-demand pieces shortly after purchase. For example, newly released colorways or special edition Birkins may command a premium immediately on the resale market. However, this approach requires sharp market awareness and quick execution.

Long-Term Holding

Classic styles—like the Birkin 25 in neutral tones or the Kelly in rare exotics—often appreciate steadily over time. Holding these pieces allows you to benefit from market scarcity, brand exclusivity, and the enduring desirability of Hermès craftsmanship. Long-term strategies are ideal for building value and minimizing risk.

Both strategies can be profitable when backed by strong market insight. Whether you’re making a quick flip or a legacy investment, Hermès remains one of the most reliable assets in the luxury space.