Significant Dates
Date Codes
1945 – 1970 NO SHAPE - BEHIND SANGLE
1971 – 1996 CIRCLE - BEHIND SANGLE
1997 – 2014 SQUARE - BEHIND SANGLE
2015 – Present NO SHAPE - INSIDE BAG ON GUSSETS
NO STAMP Prior to 1945
LETTER ONLY (1945 – 1970) — BEHIND SANGLE
CIRCLE (1971 – 1996) - BEHIND SANGLE
SQUARE (1997 – 2014) - BEHIND SANGLE
LETTER ONLY (2015 – Present) - INSIDE BAG ON GUSSETS
Hardware
1800s to mid-1980s:
Mid-1980s to 1990s:
2000s-2010:
2010-present:
Leathers
Image Source: Sandia Exchange
Barenia Calfskin
Image Source: Emier
Barenia Faubourg
Chamonix
The matte version of boxcalf. This leather handles scratches better than boxcalf, but is worse in the rain, with a greater tendency to blister. The finish applied to this leather gives it an almost plastic appearance. The picture below appears to have a gloss, do not be mislead, it is matte.
Barenia Natural
The original saddle leather. This leather is double tanned in chrome and vegetable dyes and then soaked in a mix of nine different oils over a 5 to 6 week process. The process causes the leather fibers to soak up all the oils. This leaves the leather with an interesting characteristic. When scratched, the scratches can be rubbed off with a few swipes of your finger, because Barenia can absorb the oils. Also, when rained upon, the water droplets will eventually evaporate. There is no aniline finish, therefore, this leather will develop a patina. Here is the link to the tannery: Tanneries Haas
Peau Porc
Another of Hermes's classic leathers, but retired during the last 10 years. A long lasting durable leather that can last generations if maintained. It is lightweight. This leather is available matte or lisse and can be dyed. Horrible in rain, this leather will blister.
Togo
Baby calf leather, a veau. To some it is heavy. Others find the aroma heavenly. It is a soft leather, but not as much as clemence. To many, one of the hallmarks of togo is veining. However, togo can be veined or unveined. It is a finer grain than clemence, and slightly more pronounced. It is scratchproof and can be refurbished to almost as good as new.
Clemence
Official name is veau taurillon clemence. It is baby bull and heavy. Perhaps the leather with most slouch to it. It is a broader, flatter grain. The grain has a tendency to come to the surface and this is evidenced by cracking of the resin along the edges of the bag. Around since the 1980's, it is becoming a classic. Another of the Hermes leathers that can be refurbished to almost as good as new.
Epsom
This is an embossed leather, in other words the pattern is imprinted into the leather and what you see is not its natural grain. The process of embossing compresses the leather and gives the leather some rigidity. This is a phenomenon common to all the embossed leathers and to the stretched ones as well. Epsom appears to be laminated as it is easy to clean with a damp cloth, which is one of the advantages to this leather. In addition, it is lightweight.
Courchevel
Now only seen in small accessories, this leather is very similar to epson in appearance. Another embossed leather, it has the same properties as epson. It is lightweight and easy to clean. The slight difference is that courchevel is shinier and darker at the top of the grain. I believe it may be dyed in a 2 dye process and then treated with a laminate.
Agneau
Lambskin. Very soft with a gentle hand. It is prone to scratches but ages well with a slight patina and slight greying around the edges. It is used in gloves and the linings of the jige elan, some small leather goods, maharani, and many vintage clutches, as well as the bolide and selected white bags. It is also used in Carmen keyring and carmencita series bookmarks.
Gulliver/Swift
I am clumping these two leathers together, because they are one and the same. Gulliver was retired around 7 years ago and brought back within the last year. This time it was renamed Swift. Does anyone see the connection between the two leathers? Hint: Who wrote Gulliver's Travels. Anyway, it is a soft leather with a gentle hand and a fine grain. One of its best qualities is that it is great at absorbing the dyes and the brighter colors come to life in this leather. The fine grain seems to reflect light in such a way that the colors are almost iridescent. While it can scratch more easily than clemence and togo the scratches can be rubbed off with your finger. Deeper scratches can be refurbished with a condition at Hermes spa and brought back to almost new. I find this a resilient leather.
Ostrich
Species Struthio Camellus, farmed in South Africa. Can come matte. This is a dynamic leather that will darken from contact with your hands and also lighten with exposure to light. It is effective in rain as the surface can be wiped down with a cloth with no marks or residue. It ages well and will develop a patina over time. If maintained properly it can last decades. It should come with a CITES certificate that should be carried while traveling overseas.
Crocodylus Porosus - Shiney
This leather is designated by a ^. Farmed in Australia. Considered by many to be the premier Hermes leather and noted for its fine, symmetrical scale pattern. It does not come glazed, rather the shine comes from repeated buffing of the skin with a stone until it reaches a sheen. Because it is not treated, it does not do well in rain. While the crocodile skins can be glazed, it is not recommended that it be done more than twice. The reason being that the uneven texture of the skin will leave the glaze uneven on its surface, which may eventually peel and flake with time. Being an exotic, it should come with a CITES certificate that should be carried while traveling.
Crocodylus Niloticus - Shiney
Also known as Nile crocodile and farmed in Zimbabwe. Designated by .. Recognized by its larger scale pattern than porosus. It does not come glazed, rather the shine comes from repeated buffing of the skin with a stone until it reaches a sheen. Because it is not treated, it does not do well in rain. Glazing should not be done more than twice. The reason being that the uneven texture of the skin will leave the glaze uneven on its surface, which may eventually peel and flake with time. Being an exotic, it should come with a CITES certificate that should be carried while traveling.
FJORD
A vache, or adult cow hide. It has a wider, flatter grain than togo or clemence. Somewhat heavier as well. It has the advantage of repelling water off its surface. I have seen this bag in rain and the droplets have slid off.
Crocodylus Niloticus - Matte
Known as Nile crocodile, farmed in Zimbabwe, and denoted by .. The following picture is matte skin. Matte skins are finished simply by rubbing with felt, thereby necessitating that the skins be the best available as every blemish will be evident. The same care for matte croc skins as shiny skins must be observed under wet conditions. If wet or stained the defect can remain permanently. Again CITES certificates are provided with the bag and should be carried during travel.
Barenia - Calfskin named after the commune of Barr in Alsace, France.
Courchevel - Calfskin named after the Alpine resort and commune in southeastern France.
Vachette Ardennes
Calfskin named after the forested region that spreads into areas of Belgium, Luxembourg, Germany, and France. “Vachette” denotes that the animal is a calf (as opposed to a “Vache”— adult cow).
Togo - Calfskin named after the country in Africa.
Epsom - Calfskin named after a town in Surrey, England famous for epsom salt and horse races.
Sikkim - Calfskin named after a state in northern India.
Barenia Faubourg - Calfskin named after the Hermès flagship boutique located at 24 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré in Paris, France.
Chèvre Marocain - Moroccan goatskin used for the interior of many bags, namely Birkins and Kellys bar some exceptions (i.e. Swift bags)
Chèvre de Coromandel - Goatskin from Coromandel, New Zealand.
Chèvre Mysore - Goatskin named after Mysore, Karnataka, India.
Chèvre Jhansi - Goatskin named after Jhansi, Uttar Pradesh, India.
Chèvre Mangalore - Goatskin named after Mangalore, Karnataka, India.
Chèvre Calcutta - Goatskin named after Calcutta/Kolkata, West Bengal, India.
(I believe Chèvre Chandra and Chèvre Chamkila are the only exceptions.)
Contrast “Naturel” Stitching
No * is sometimes seen with white/naturel stitching.
*These colours only have contrast white/Naturel stitching in certain leathers.
**These colours only have contrast white/Naturel stitching for certain seasons or collections.
Of course, there are also light-coloured bags with white/Naturel stitching like Argile, Gris Névé, and Craie, though I would not count those as technically being “contrast”.
Different Color Stitching
*These colours only have their respective contrast stitching in specific leathers.
**These colours only have their respective contrast stitching for certain seasons or collections.
***5P Pink (2010 colour), not to be confused with Rose Bubblegum (2018 colour for exotics). They have different colour codes— 5P and L4, respectively.
Color Code List:
Whites:
Naturals:
Browns:
Oranges:
Reds:
Pinks:
Purples:
Blues:
Gray
Greens
Blacks
Yellows
